Wondering how much this might cost to have done, labor only.

Going from an auto to a manual? Or just replacing a manual trans?

Replacing a manual transmission with another same part.

shouldnt cost you anything but fluid and a clutch(if your replacing it), thats if you already have another tranny, i have one if your intetested

I wouldn't imagine they'd charge more than 6 hours labor to remove and replace. If they're rebuilding it, the labor charge will obviously be more.

I'd offer to lend a hand and do it, but I've got way too much on my plate right now as it is. Maybe sweet talk JDMSolutions, word on the street is he's got mad EF Skills and has a big project to pay for, lol.

JDMSolutions how much for the transmission and how many miles are on it? Where'd it come from?

We did an axle job on my friend's car over the weekend and the transmission decided to check out on us. We aren't sure if we broke it or not. Regardless my friend might be willing to pay someone to do the job but it would have to be a pretty screaming deal. He's leaning towards doing the job himself with me helping. I'm putting out feelers to see what kinda deal he might get locally on an install.

ill pm you

hit me up with how much you are willing to pay and ill let you know... i can swap that thing for you in a few hours with my eyes closed lmk

^Can I spectate? I wanna see someone do it with their eyes closed

Hey guys will we need a cherry picker for the job? Cars gonna be on jack stands. Any tips? TIA

You can tackle this two ways. Either pulling the entire engine and transmission or just the transmission.

These are basic directions for dropping the transmission out of the bottom of the car. You can pull it from the top, engine and all, but this is the way I'd do it personally.

If I was in your boat, what I'd do is lift the car up high in the front on the stands.

Remove battery, airbox, battery tray, and whatever else my be in your way directly above the transmission. Also remove the starter.

Drain transmission.

Remove wheel, Axle nut, lower ball joint, spring fork from control arm. Pop axle out of transmission and place off to the side.

Remove the arm that leads up to the front cross member under the core support, you may not need to, but it will give you more clearance.

Remove the clutch cable, speedometer cable, and any bracketry that holds the engine harness.

Remove the rear mount and shift linkage from transmission.

Support engine with hoist from above, or you can use a block of wood on the oil pan below, but I prefer a picker.

Unbolt the passenger side transmission mount from the transmission. Slowly lower it down until you can access all the bolts (somewhat easily) that hold the trans to the block.

Unbolt those (obviously) and pull the transmission out while engine is angled down on the passenger side.


::If you're comfortable with it, you can also drop the entire engine out of the bottom by removing the fuel lines, some vac lines, PS pump (if you've got it, and A/C if youve got it). It all depends on what is there for how I determine to go about it personally:

Honda installs these engines from the bottom of the bay, so IMO its the best way to take them out. Others prefer pulling them from above (well, I guess I did that with the K series in my EK), but do whats easiest for you with the tools you have on hand.

You don't HAVE to have a cherry picker, but it does make the job a little easier if you ask me.

Even yesterday when I dropped the engine and trans out of my wagon, I used a picker to hold the engine weight, ubolted the mounts and dropped it directly out the bottom (in which case you need to completely remove both axles, and the front crossmember on the car).

Thanks a lot for the info. We're hoping to get this done in the backyard on my RV pullout before winter really gets serious. Gonna need to get going on it pretty soon here.

when in doubt -- research

Yah we got a chiltons in PDF format. Better than nothing. Never hurts to ask for any tips or info the chilton's guide might be leaving out.

Last night we noticed with the car off in neutral you could turn the driver side wheel and the passenger side would spin with it. Turn the car on and put it in first gear, let clutch out slowly, and passenger side would not turn but the driver side would. Pulled driver side axle off the car and could see into the transmission through the hole. With the car turned on and in neutral you can see something spinning in there where the axle fits in. First gear same behavior. Put it in reverse, clutch out slowly, and you get the same spinning but it reverses directions. At no time did the passenger side spin for us except when the car was turned off in neutral and we spun the driver side by hand.

Very odd behavior. Oh, the driver side axle appears fine splines look good. Was a pain in the ass getting it out of there.

compare and contrast.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Differential_(mechanical_device)

Well we lucked out. Long long story short it turns out the axles I got for the car off the internet were not right. My buddy got a couple from carquest and now it's fine.

This 90 civic has the stock wheels on there and we are pulling the wheel covers because they are pretty haggard at this point. The stock wheels actually look better on the car. Question though does anyone have a set of honda centercaps that might fit these old wheels? Or know of a good place online to get some cheap?

If the wheels are 14" I have 2 sets of caps. I would be willing to sell one set of them. They are OEM Honda - I need one set to keep around for my Steelies if I rock them on anything though, lol.

Nope they are the 13s.

Been looking online. What a RAPE. $25 for a single centercap. And I thought Enkei charged a lot for their stuff. This is ridiculous.

Dang, if he comes across some 14" steelies I'll sell him a set of caps for like $40.