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     2012 Dragon Frost Restoration

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    PostSubject: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 20th 2012, 3:31 pm

    Well as some of you may know I am doing a FULL overhaul on the Dragon this year. She is getting a new coat of paint and a very elaborate skeleton. My old roll cage was very much not legal or safe, but I did enjoy it while I had it. Kind of one of those things you need in order to roll past the 11.49 mark, so I needed to change a few things.

    First off the old cage was made of 1.50" hot rolled which is not NHRA legal. Second, the welds were got the greatest (we had to weld everything in the car and it had all the interior in it). And finally third the design was not good enough to make NHRA bare minimum requirements.

    The new cage is made of 1.75" DOM (1.34" thick) pipe and I designed it according to NHRA specs. I had about 20 hours if not more designing this thing and I am so happy I spent all that time getting it figured out.

    The best part is the fact I can still retain all of my interior pieces without having to remove anything. I have about 70% of the car sanded down and ready for paint, but still have a bit of work to do including the engine bay.

    Here is a pic of the cage assembled and ready for primer. More pics to come upon completion.


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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 20th 2012, 4:42 pm

    Going to be great.
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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 20th 2012, 5:52 pm

    All primered up and ready for paint tomorrow.


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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 20th 2012, 6:21 pm

    Is the one arm coming off the passenger side for your PC?
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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 20th 2012, 7:10 pm

    Yep, that is the laptop mount.

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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 21st 2012, 12:17 am

    can a rollcage be legally bolted together in the center sections like you have and still pass certification?
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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 21st 2012, 7:53 am

    Says nothing in the regulations about it. That was my major concern with making the cage removable. If the hoop was one piece I would not be able to remove it from the car as the rear strut pieces have to be welded to the hoop. This is the only way that I could make it work. Rules say nothing about the hoop being one continuous piece.

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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 21st 2012, 9:36 am

    Lookin sweet. Cant wait to see this badboy done.
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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 21st 2012, 1:54 pm

    Just got done shooting color. Looks amazing! Going to be clearing tonight and adding a bit of pearl for accent. Here is a shot of her all painted up.


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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 21st 2012, 2:24 pm

    Looks swell! How come white?
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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 21st 2012, 4:55 pm

    I have become a large fan of white over the past few months. Wait till you see the car. Smile

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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 21st 2012, 5:15 pm

    I thought hoop needed to be one piece as well!
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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 21st 2012, 5:41 pm

    kinda what i was thinking. i believe you can have it slid together like the front of your halo. but i was thinking the hoop needed to be one piece, i beliece the rear hoop support bars cannot have bents in them either...


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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 21st 2012, 5:47 pm

    Damn Mikey... White is going to be ballin SON!!!
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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 21st 2012, 7:00 pm

    Page 20.18

    http://www.nhra.com/UserFiles/file/General_Regulations.pdf

    Says nothing about the bars to the rear being straight or the hoop being one continuous piece.

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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 21st 2012, 7:15 pm

    15.6.11 Rear Braces
    The main hoop must have two (2) braces extending to the rear. The braces shall be
    attached as near as possible to the top of the main hoop, and no more than six (6)
    inches below the top. The braces must not contain any bends*. There must be at
    least 30 degrees between the plane of the main hoop and the plane of the rear braces.

    maybe this info is differemt than yours. but ive read it from 2 other pdf's regarding rear hoop supports
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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 22nd 2012, 11:12 pm

    Just found another post with a bunch more regulations and unfortunately the main hoop needs to be one continuous piece. Not a big deal though, NHRA certified or not I love the design and she is very rigid. If you had seen my old cage you would agree an upgrade was necessary.

    If I were to make the hoop one continuous piece and have straight sections going to the rear strut tower braces I would not have been able to paint it as it would be impossible to remove, not to mention I am retaining all my interior and that would not have been possible with straight rear braces.

    On the bright side the cage looks amazing.

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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 22nd 2012, 11:16 pm

    Here is the post I found on a Mistsu site.

    15.6 Roll Cage
    (See diagram at end of section)
    15.6.1 Purpose
    The basic purpose of the roll cage is to protect the occupant in case of a rollover or a
    collision. It should be able to withstand the weight of the car landing on the roof. These
    rules apply to all classes, unless otherwise superseded by the class rules. Vehicles
    homologated by, or built to the specifications of, FIA Group N, FIA Group C, JAF, SCCA,
    IMSA, and Grand AM must conform to these rules, or may conform to their respective
    current class rules for roll cage requirements for guest groups and special events. Any
    vehicle that does not conform to the NASA cage rules, yet conforms to cage rules of
    another recognized sanctioning body (SCCA, IMSA, Grand Am, etc.), that wishes
    compete in NASA events on a regular basis, should be ordered to make modifications
    within a time frame specified by the Race Director and approved by the Regional
    Director. Note- It is the responsibility of the driver to furnish a copy of any non-NASA
    rules applicable to his/her vehicle.
    15.6.2 Intent
    Chassis stiffening is a side benefit of a good roll cage system, but it is not the intent of
    these rules. Parts of the cage deemed by the Chief Scrutineer, to serve no practical
    purpose other than chassis stiffening may be considered in violation of the intent of
    these rules (Note: Some class rules allow for chassis stiffening.). The Chief Scrutineer
    may order the removal of said parts, or require that the vehicle owner redesign,
    reconstruct, and re-certify the roll cage if warranted. The removal or redesign of the
    cage, whole or in part, to comply with these rules, does not imply that penalties will not
    be issued for violating the intent of these rules.
    15.6.3 Installation
    The cage may be removable or may be permanently welded, or any combination
    thereof, providing that all aspects of the cage meet these rules.
    15.6.4 Padding
    All roll cage surfaces that may come in contact with the driver should be padded with
    high-density padding such as Ethafoam or Ensolite. It is recommended that padding
    meeting SFI specification 45.1 be used.
    15.6.5 Bends
    None of the tubing may show any signs of crimping or wall failure. All bends must be
    Mandrel type. The center radius of the bends may not be less than three (3) times the
    outside diameter of the roll cage tubing.
    15.6.6 Main Hoop
    The main roll cage hoop should be as wide as the full width of the interior and must be
    as close to the roof as possible without violating CCR section #15.6.20 Inspection. One
    continuous length of roll bar tubing shall be used as the main hoop. The main hoop
    must consist of not more than four (4) bends maximum, totaling one hundred eighty
    (180) degrees +/- ten (10) degrees.
    15.6.7 Diagonal Brace
    One (1) diagonal brace shall be used in the same plane as the main hoop. The diagonal
    should be one continuous path; meaning that it must conform to Diagrams 15.6.7a or
    15.6.7b. Note- If the installation method from Diagram 15.6.7b is used, the builder
    should pay close attention to alignment. One end of the diagonal brace shall attach to
    60
    the corner, or horizontal part, of the main hoop above the driver’s head, within twelve
    (12) inches of the driver’s-side corner. The other end of the diagonal brace shall attach
    to the mounting plate (or to the main hoop as close to the mounting plate as practically
    possible) diagonally opposed to the driver’s head (passenger floor).
    15.6.8 Forward Hoops (Option 1)
    The forward hoops shall extend from the main hoop (in a forward direction) to the floor
    by following the roof and the “A” pillar of the car. There shall be a bar connecting the
    two (2) forward hoops at the top of the windshield mounted as close to the roof as
    possible without violating CCR Section #15.6.20 Inspection. The forward hoops shall
    incorporate no more than four bends each. Optionally a “15.6.9 Halo Hoop (Option 2)”
    or “15.6.10 Front Hoop (Option 3)” construction may also be acceptable.
    15.6.9 Halo Hoop (Option 2)
    A “halo bar” extends from the main hoop (in a forward direction) following the roof line to
    the windshield then following along the top of the windshield, then following the roof line
    back to the main hoop, thus creating a “halo” over the driver’s head. A “halo” bar shall
    be constructed of one (1) continuous piece of tubing. One (1) down tube following the
    “A” pillar must support the “halo” on each side of the car. The down tubes shall
    incorporate no more than two (2) bends each.
    15.6.10 Front Hoop (Option 3)
    A “front hoop” is a bar that extends up from the floor, then follows the “A” pillar up to the
    roof, then follows the roof line across the top of the windshield, then back down the other
    “A” pillar, and then terminates on the floor. There must be one (1) horizontal bar
    (following the roof line) connecting the main hoop and the forward hoop on each side of
    the car. The front hoop shall incorporate no more than four (4) bends.
    15.6.11 Rear Braces
    The main hoop must have two (2) braces extending to the rear. The braces shall be
    attached as near as possible to the top of the main hoop, and no more than six (6)
    inches below the top. The braces must not contain any bends*. There must be at
    least 30 degrees between the plane of the main hoop and the plane of the rear braces.
    The main hoop rear braces shall be installed to form no more than a one hundred five
    (105) degree angle or no less than a seventy-five (75) degree angle with the main hoop
    when viewed from the top. The main hoop braces may be mounted at the rear shock
    mounts or suspension pickup points (providing that the braces remain in compliance with
    all other sections of the CCR). They may go through any rear bulkhead(s) provided the
    bulkhead(s) is sealed around the cage braces. *There may be certain exceptions
    allowed for cars that cannot possible meet this “no bend” requirement. One exception is
    listed [Ref15.6.11.A)]. Other exceptions may be made (not guaranteed) if all of the
    required bars meet the specifications for a vehicle in the next heavier weight
    classification and the alternative design is submitted to the NASA National Office for
    special allowance.

    15.6.11.A Rear Braces - Exceptions
    On cars where the rear window/bulkhead prohibits the installation of rear braces
    (Porsche 914, Pontiac Fiero, etc.) the main hoop must be attached to the body by plates
    welded to the cage and bolted to the stock shoulder harness mounting location. There
    must also be a diagonal bar connecting the top of the main hoop to the lower front
    passenger side mounting point (“Petty bar”). Some cars built for racing in other
    recognized sanctioning bodies may be granted a waiver of this rule, however they must
    show proof of compliance with the current published rules for their class.
    61
    15.6.12 Door Bars / Side Impact Protection
    At least one (1) door bar on driver side and one (1) on the passenger side must be used.
    At least two (2) door bars on the driver side and one (1) door bar on the passenger side
    must be installed in all vehicles that obtain a new logbook after January 1st, 2007.
    All vehicles, regardless of date of manufacture or date of logbook issuance will be
    required to have at least two (2) door bars on the driver side and one (1) door bar on the
    passenger side starting January 1st, 2011.
    Unless superseded by class rules, modifications to any non-chassis structure (such as
    door panels, inner door sheet metal, windows, door internals, etc.) may be made to
    accommodate any allowed door bar configuration. However, removal of material and /
    or modifications is limited to 1) the least amount to accommodate the door bar(s), and 2)
    can serve no other function. Holes in the door jam (B-pillar) may be permitted to
    accommodate door bars; however the structure should not be “notched” so as to weaken
    it.
    15.6.13 Mounting Points
    The roll cage shall be mounted to the floor area of the car in six, seven, or eight points.
    The cage shall not go through the firewall. The seventh and eighth points must attach to
    the firewall or front fender wells. All cage attachment points must be mounted to plates
    or a mounting box (plinth). Each required cage bar shall terminate on a plate with a 360
    degree weld to the mounting plate, except as specified in Section 15.6.14.B. There shall
    be only one (1) mounting “point” per plate. This point is defined as where the “required
    tube” mounts. All additional tubes mounted to that plate must be mounted as close to
    the required tube as possible [Ref: (15.6.14.B)]. It is recommended that plinth boxes use
    a bottom support plate in cases where the edges of the box may punch through the
    sheet metal.
    15.6.14 Mounting Plates
    Each mounting plate shall be no greater than one hundred (100) square inches and no
    greater than twelve (12) inches or less than two (2) inches on a side. Welded mounting
    plates shall be at least 0.080-inch thick. Plates may extend onto vertical sections of the
    structure. Any mounting plate may be multi-angled, but shall not exceed one hundred
    (100) square inches total including vertical sections. Each mounting plate should have
    an area of not less than nine (9) square inches.
    15.6.14.A Mounting Plates – Bolt-In Cage
    The attaching points of a bolt-in cage to the body must use reinforcing plates to
    sandwich the body. At least three (3) bolts are required for each bolt-in plate and the
    plate must be at least 3/16 inch thick. All hardware must be SAE Grade 5 or better with
    5/16” diameter minimum. All nuts must be held securely by a locking system such as
    safety wire, lock washer, Nylox, or jam-nuts.
    15.6.14.B Tube / Mounting Plate Specifications
    Any number of tubes may attach to a plate so long as they are touching each other at
    the plate. There may be a small gap between tubes to allow welding 360 degrees
    around each tube. If there is no gap between the tubes, they must be welded around
    the base as much as possible to form a single figure-eight weld, AND the tubes must be
    welded to each other two (2) inches up from the base plate.
    15.6.15 Welds
    All welding must be of the highest quality with full penetration and shall conform to the
    American Welding Society D1.1, 1994 Edition, Structural Welding Code, Chapter 10,
    62
    Tubular Structures and Standards for the material used. Arc welding should be used
    whenever possible. It is strongly recommended that the welder inspect all welds using
    Magnaflux™, x-ray, or other effective methods. All tubes must be welded 360-degrees
    around the circumference of the tube.
    15.6.16 Tube Structure Design / Body
    Tubes may touch the body in any place (not to violate CCR section #15.6.20 Inspection),
    but shall not be attached anywhere except as permitted by CCR Section #15.6.11.A
    Rear Braces - Exceptions. No deformation of the interior body panels is permitted,
    except that the horizontal part of the sheet metal (next to the driver’s and/or passenger’s
    head) between the top of the “B” pillar and the top of the “A” pillar, may be pushed in to
    accommodate the roll cage. The intent of this allowed deformation is strictly to allow for
    more headroom for the driver and/or passenger.
    15.6.17 Additional Reinforcement
    Any number of additional reinforcing bars are permitted within the structure of the cage
    provided that they are installed strictly for safety and do not violate CCR Section #15.6.2
    Intent. This rule does not permit reinforcements in classes with spec cages.
    All required bars must be made of the same material and meet with at least the minimum
    specifications for size and thickness.
    15.6.18 Roll Cage Tubing Sizes
    For the purposes of determining roll bar tubing sizes, vehicle weight is as raced, but
    without fuel and driver. Note: There is an allowance of minus 0.010 inches on all tubing
    thicknesses. Minimum tubing size for the roll cage is:
    Up to 1500 lbs.
    1.375” x 0.095” Seamless Alloy (4130), Seamless mild steel (CDS Mechanical) or DOM
    1501 - 2500 lbs.
    1.500” x 0.095” Seamless Alloy (4130), Seamless mild steel (CDS Mechanical) or DOM
    1.500” x 0.120” ERW* (No issuance of log books for cars with ERW cages 04/30/03)
    *Note- Specifications listed for reference for inspection of grandfathered vehicles.
    2501 - 3000 lbs.
    1.500” x 0.120” Seamless Alloy (4130), Seamless mild steel (CDS Mechanical) or DOM
    1.750” x 0.095” Seamless Alloy (4130), Seamless mild steel (CDS Mechanical) or DOM
    1.750” x 0.120” ERW* (No issuance of log books for cars with ERW cages 04/30/03)
    *Note- Specifications listed for reference for inspection of grandfathered vehicles.
    3001 - 4000 lbs.
    1.750” x .120” Seamless Alloy (4130), Seamless mild steel (CDS Mechanical) or DOM
    No ERW allowed.
    Over 4000 lbs.
    2.000” x 0.120” Seamless Alloy (4130), Seamless mild steel (CDS Mechanical) or DOM
    No ERW allowed.
    15.6.19 Bending Allowances
    If the maximum number of bends permitted for any one bar is exceeded, all required
    components shall be made from the tubing size listed for the next heavier category and
    must be approved by a NASA race tech shop or scrutineer.
    63
    15.6.20 Inspection
    A 3/16-inch inspection hole must be drilled in each of the required bars in a non-critical
    area for the purpose of determining wall thickness. All welds, except those mounted to
    plates on the floor, must be accessible for inspection (360 degrees).
    15.6.21 Head Support-Rear
    This section applies to seats without an integral headrest. A head restraint must be
    used to help prevent whiplash. The head restraint should have a minimum area of thirtysix
    (36) square inches and be padded with a non-resilient material such as Ethafoam or
    Ensolite with a minimum thickness of one (1) inch. It is recommended that padding
    meeting SFI specification 45.2 be used.
    15.6.22 Seat Back Support
    A seatback support must be made to hold the seat from going back in the event of a
    crash. A plate should be used to distribute the load. No bolts, corners, or sharp objects
    should be placed in such a manner that could lead to a possible puncture of the driver in
    a high impact crash. Proper design and installation is crucial to safety and it is
    recommended that the driver employ the services of a professional race car builder for
    this, as well as all other vehicle safety items. An exception may be made for those seats
    homologated to, and mounted in accordance with, FIA 8855-1999 or 8862-2009
    standards. Those seats that qualify for the aforementioned exception must conform to
    the entire FIA 8855-1999 or 8862-2009 set of regulations, as applicable. This includes a
    mandatory seat replacement, or use of a seat back brace, for any seat more than five (5)
    years old (8899-1999) or more than ten (10) years old (8862-2009). Please reference
    the FIA regulations. http://www.fia.com/

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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 23rd 2012, 9:30 am

    Lookin good Mikey, can't wait too see more progress.
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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 23rd 2012, 10:54 pm

    Well here is the cage installed. 2 1/2 weeks of hard labor and here is the outcome. I am so happy I cannot even stop smiling.










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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 24th 2012, 11:46 am

    I can't stop smiling either. Well done Mike!
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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 24th 2012, 1:15 pm

    Thanks Nate, I am very proud of this bad boy. Heading out to throw the freshly painted center console in along with the seats. Pretty stoked.

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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 24th 2012, 8:21 pm

    Here is a few shots of the interior put back together. Takes forever to get this crap back in.




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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 25th 2012, 1:17 pm

    Great!! Now even LESS legroom in the passenger seat now!!! :p

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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 26th 2012, 9:14 am

    Engine bay is complete. All downhill from here!


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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 26th 2012, 7:18 pm

    Engine bay back together.


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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   February 26th 2012, 9:26 pm

    Shocked so fresh n so clean.

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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   March 6th 2012, 6:21 pm

    Car is in primer ready for a light sanding. Shooting paint tomorrow.






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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   March 6th 2012, 9:16 pm

    I'm interested in the final result.
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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   March 7th 2012, 4:54 pm

    Tell me about it. I am ready to roll her out and get started on the rest of the body pieces.

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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   March 7th 2012, 5:00 pm

    Damn Mikey, you do nice work. Are you going to go back to Red, same shade and all?

    If you aren't going too much faster than 11.50, you might not get much grief for the cage. Half the time, I wonder just how much the "tech" folks know the rules to check for.
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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   March 7th 2012, 8:13 pm

    Here is the paint fellas. Clearing tomorrow.








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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   March 8th 2012, 9:15 am

    Looking sweet Mike, I think the white is a great choice. Gonna look cool when your all done. Hurry and finish it and come show me!

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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   March 8th 2012, 7:01 pm

    The clear has been lain.




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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   March 8th 2012, 8:57 pm

    Frosty brother! Going to be crazy seeing baller white after 10 years rockin your red 2.5rs. LOOKS super clean.
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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   March 9th 2012, 10:14 am

    Gangsta! That's gonna look sick with the black wheels! Good job man
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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   March 9th 2012, 8:29 pm

    Thanks dudes. Wet sanded, cut, buffed, and polished today. She is looking just fantastic. Going to pull her out tomorrow and see her in the sun. So excited!

    Next starts all the body pieces.

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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   March 10th 2012, 2:45 pm

    Well here are a few of the finished product. Turned out pretty good.






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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   March 10th 2012, 7:32 pm

    That looks really nice with the black wheelz. I have to see this in person!
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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   March 10th 2012, 7:42 pm

    You know where I am at. Head out whenever.

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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   March 11th 2012, 1:56 am

    Lookin good Mike!
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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   March 11th 2012, 11:03 am

    Thanks Nik. Very pleased thus far.

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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   March 11th 2012, 6:06 pm

    Looks awesome mike! Not gonna lie it's kinda weird seein her white tho. Gonna take some gettin used to!
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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   March 11th 2012, 6:09 pm

    Pictures don't do justice! She looks 10,000x better in person.


    Last edited by BlueSteel on March 11th 2012, 8:03 pm; edited 1 time in total
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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   March 11th 2012, 7:23 pm

    Add 12 more pieces to the completed pile. Everything that will be black on the exterior is done.

    Starting the hood and trunk tomorrow.

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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   March 12th 2012, 12:12 pm

    I saw we have our first big MAEC meet scheduled around when the Dragon (sorry, it'll take a while for this name to die for me lol) is finished so everyone can meet and drool lol.

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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   March 13th 2012, 2:09 pm

    Looking good Mikey!!! I can't wait until I can see it in person!!! Come on July!!!!
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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   March 13th 2012, 9:07 pm

    Finished up everything I had planned. Frickin' brand new hood had major damage on the front passenger side. Spent the better part of yesterday getting it straight and looking normal. Here are some shots of todays work. I also got mirrors and door handles done, but they are not pictured.

    Here is a shot of the hood where the damage was.








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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   March 19th 2012, 8:54 am

    Any updates...
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    PostSubject: Re: 2012 Dragon Frost Restoration   March 19th 2012, 8:37 pm

    Well I have a few actually. Saturday I had a catastrophic failure with the top of the wing. Being that the wing is so large I separate it to paint it and I had the bottom of the wing on sawhorses and the top of the wing suspended from the roof. On the third coat of paint the wing took a dive and hit the floor. Both of the corners broke off completely not to mention the fresh paint I had to sand off back to primer.

    Today I got the wing all finished up and it looks better than it did initially. The two pieces didnt really line up correctly, but now they are perfect. So now the wing is in primer, AGAIN, and I will shoot it tomorrow.

    A few other tidbits from Saturday, I actually ended up being short on paint, so the hood and trunk were left to primer and I just ended up shooting the bottom of the wing and fenders. Unfortunately things didnt work out well with anything I did that day. There were so many bugs at the time of spraying I just ended up shooting a final coat of paint on Sunday and clearing shortly after. Sunday was a great day and everything worked out as planned.

    So, long story short things are going to be hitting a major turning point here in the next 24 hours as I get my paint tomorrow morning. All I will have left after tomorrow will be the doors, rear bumper, and side skirts.

    I am guessing the end of the week I will have froSTI done in her entirety.

    Here are a few teaser shots of the front end. I made the corner lights translucent white along with the rear tail lights. Going to be very clean and sexy. These will be the last few shots of the car till the reveal. Dont want to give the whole project away VIA photos.



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